These tableaux at the Voortrekker Monument freeze blood into pure white stone. In the cool, echoing sanctuary of the interior, with soft light filtered by stained glass, you can almost smell the gunpowder from the muzzle-loaders. In historical terms, all of this happened just the other day, and we’re still grappling with the aftermath. And yet, as the latest plaque at the entrance to the monument tells us, this is now a national heritage site, a place of reflection for all South Africans.

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